Puppy fleas drive your pet nuts and with more than 2,200 species of fleas recognized worldwide, feel comforted that only a handful “bug” dogs in North America. The cat flea most often infests dogs and causes more than itching. Fleas can cause allergies, anemia, and transmit tapeworms as well as the agent that causes cat scratch disease. To pick the best bug weapons, you must first understand the enemy. The adult flea you find crawling through your puppy’s fur represents only the tip of the buggy iceberg.
Symptoms of Fleas
Puppies with fleas become quite itchy. Fleas seem to prefer the back end of dogs, so the pet may chew the flanks and above the tail region. Parting the fur also often reveals "flea dirt"--it looks like tiny black specks caught in fur. This digested blood is flea poop and turns red when placed on a damp cloth.
But with allergic pets, a single flea bite can cause all over itching. These pups become sensitive and react to flea saliva. Products that don't just kill but also repel fleas work best for allergic pups.
Flea Life Cycle
Adult fleas don’t hop on and off your pet. They stay there unless involuntarily dislodged, but they represent only five percent of the total flea population. The remaining 95 percent composed of flea eggs, larvae, and pupae lurk in the environment poised to belly up to the furry banquet.
Fleas can lay 20 to 40 eggs per day, and ten female fleas can create almost a quarter of a million different life stages in a month. Newly emerged flea larvae can survive two weeks without a blood meal, and pre-emerged (pupae/cocoon stage) can survive six months without feeding.
Flea products may address the egg, larvae and adult stages, but no insecticide can kill the cocoon stage. You must wait until it hatches to kill it. It takes fourteen to twenty-one days for the lifecycle to be complete.
Fleas hate direct sunlight and prefer outdoor shaded areas with sand, leaves or other debris. So the lifestyle of your puppy determines their exposure. Indoor couch potato pups won’t need the same protection as hunting dogs that roam the field. But even pups that visit the yard on leash have enough exposure to warrant flea protection.
Age and health also influence the type of product you should choose. Look at the label to make sure the flea or tick protection says it’s safe for your individual pets. Some are not safe for puppies.
While extremes of cold can kill parasites and they remain active only during warm months, owners have trouble predicting and anticipating a weather change that brings out the bugs. The Companion Animal Parasite Council (CAPC) recommends year-round protection against fleas and ticks.
Flea Treatment, Naturally
The safest and most “natural” flea control technique involves using a flea-comb. Frequent vacuuming of the carpet removes up to 90 percent of flea eggs and 50 percent of larvae. Don’t neglect washing pet beds, carriers, blankets, and throw rugs as well as any sofa cushions or other favorite pet resting places.
For outdoor habitats, cut the grass short to allow sunlight to shoo away the bugs. Keeping your pets from problem areas and treating the bug habitats helps reduce the pest population. Nematodes—worms that eat immature fleas—are available from lawn and garden supply outlets.
Bathing puppies can get rid of existing fleas but won't necessarily keep them off. They often are safest for very young pups. Be cautious of so-called "natural" flea products as they may still be dangerous for youngsters. Spray products do a better job and have some residual effect.
But products that contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) are the best choice for premise control because they prevent immature fleas from maturing into biting adults. They typically last a long time with a single application, some as long as seven months.
Modern Pest Advances
IGRs attack insects but not the pet and are one of the safest of the flea ingredients around. For instance, methoprene fools flea larva into thinking it’s a larva forever, so it never turns into a biting adult flea. Another early IGR called lufenuron (Program, once monthly pills) inhibits the development of the exoskeleton of the flea and sterilizes the bug so it can’t reproduce. Pyriproxifen (Nylar) works like methoprene but with increased potency that also kills flea eggs and larva.
A better understanding of flea biology also helped develop active ingredients that attack the flea nervous system. These include fipronil (Frontline), imadacloprid (Advantage), nitenpyram (Capstar), and selectamin (Revolution) applied as spot-on treatments once a month. Each offers slightly different benefits.
Imidacloprid kills adult fleas and have a month-long effect. Fipronil also kills adult fleas for a month and in addition is labeled to kill ticks. Selamectin protects for a month against a host of pests including fleas, ear mites, heartworms and certain types of ticks. All four of these active ingredients take 24-48 hours to be effective. Nitenpyram, taken as a pill, kills adult fleas that feed on a treated pet within twenty minutes, but is only effective for 24 hours and isn’t helpful for flea-allergic animals.
Some of the most effective flea and tick products today combine an adulticide to kill adult fleas with an IGR to control the immature bug population. You’ll find a fipronil and methoprene combination product that kills fleas and ticks (Frontline Plus), as well as etofenprox partnered with Nylar or methoprene in various over-the-counter spot-on products that help control fleas and ticks. Products that contain imidacloprid with permethrin (K-9 Advantix, dogs only) or spinosad (Comfortis for dogs) also are available. New products appear all the time.
Ask your veterinarian how best to protect your puppy in the bug wars. Some products only are available by prescription. If you choose an over-the-counter product, ensure that you look at the label and follow product instructions to ensure the health and safety of your pets.